OFR-04 19.04
Start: 08:45: Finish: 18:45
Total km., for day: Forget to note
Camped at: N47.79390° E24.07631°
Slow start as had to wait for Radu who pitched up at 10:30. Caught up, made some plans over a coffee and transferred his gear to my van and left his parked up at the main railway station in Baia Mare. Finally on our way at about 11:40.
Took a break at Breb. Initially at the top of the hill where the road forked down into it. Stopped here because an old basket maker, wait until you see his eyebrows was sitting in a field making his wares. Thanks to Radu we got to photograph him. Great old fellow, he was dead chuffed to find out he was three years older than me. Turned out he has a son working as a waiter somewhere in the UK.
The village is the one in which Prince Charlie sponsored the renovation of some 18th Century buildings. According to the locals the one opposite belongs to Prince Willy? Who knows, but the Charlie bit is correct. All duly photographed of course.
Walked up through the village to the home of a photographer, by the name of Vasile Oanea, who if you Google him has a home page, I’ve not tried yet. Fascinating, only photographs people who come through the village. Invited into his home and met his wife, and a lot of other villagers who pitched up for a butchers. Very kind, hospitable and friendly.
From there we moved on and stopped at a village where a guy renovates and preserves antic stuff, buildings, machines and similar. Had a look and there was also one strange building on the site. Turns out it was an illicit distillery. I’m assuming illicit as when I asked if it was legal R grinned and said that it was a bit of a grey area. Out front on a chair was a bloke with crutches, presumably to stop any old sod wandering in. Fascinating they distil either plums, apples or pears. It comes out anywhere between 60 to 70 percent and the smell of it almost has me falling over. Have some images that I still have to process on, will post them next chance I get.
Took a quick look at a monastery, inhabited by Nuns. It has been rebuilt having been burnt down years ago by some bad guys. Just took quick walk around and will return tomorrow to try for some images.
Camped up on the slopes on almost opposite the monastery. On some farmers land in an orchard, R asked for permission. Great view and it turns out R is a bigger pyromaniac than I am and he built an enormous campfire.
Finally crashed out at the coords above camping wild at 23:15.
OFR-05 20.04
Start: 06:15 Finish: 18:55
Total km., for day: Forgot again.
Camped at: N47.72609° E24.48742°
We are driving off the main highways on B roads and less. Visited two old wooden churches which are prolific in this part of Romania. Which by the way goes under the name of Maramures. The churches are very similar to the ones in Norway which I mentioned way back, Stav Churches. The Norwegian ones are older though. Very interesting and the murals are original and untouched and in the one there was a section that makes Hieronymus whats his name painting of Dantes Inferno look like paradise. Really turned my stomach.
Looking for a camp site with very little success so R ask an elderly lady at the roadside if she new somewhere we could camp up close by as we wanted to be at the railway station for the trip planned for tomorrow. Not a problem quoth the lady you can camp in our front garden. This turned out to be a large vegetable patch with two beds which had recently been prepared for planting. I parked up between them and R slung his hammock in the orchard behind the house.
Unbelievable hospitality and real heartfelt friendliness. The lady made us soup and a local delicacy and kept plying poor old R with wine and the illicit stuff I mention before. It’s a national favourite, called Palinca. He has to drink for me as well as they find it hard to believe I’m teetotal. Night pretty disturbed however because of barking dogs.
OFR-06 21.04
Start: 05:45 Finish: 18:00
Total km., for day: Forgot once again
Camped at: N47.76177° E23.84665°
Up early to pack van ready to get to the station. They insisted we came into the house to eat our breakfast and made us Chai and coffee, and we departed with lots of hugs and kisses and wishes that we return. When we tried to pay for all of the food and drink they had given us they got upset and wouldn’t accept a penny. Truly lovely folks.
The train trip was an a narrow gauge railway which was built for logging, it goes up about 50 km into the valley and is still used for that purpose. Once a day however a tourist version chuffs up about a third of the way and is really very interesting.
Met some interesting folks, one of whom was an Italian Sports Photographer who works for some Basketball Magazines. He was travelling around with local transport for a week, break from work and family to do his thing. Finished up squeezing him in the van as well, tight squeeze it was as well with the gear of three guys in it along with the owners. Dropped him at brew as it was on our route back to R’s car. Saved him a lot of hassle and he was an interesting chappie.
Found a place at the coords above overlooking a village and the valley, again in an orchard. R did his thing with a camp fire again and we spent our last night around it chatting,mainly about photography and R’s plans as he has quit work to go freelance. Also ate a gourmet meal of corn, tuna and a very strong sheep cheese. This went with bread toasted over the fire and great chunks of pure white pork fat. All on sticks and held over the coals. As revolting as it sounds the pork fat was delicious.
OFR-07 22.04
Start: 07:00 Finish: 16:17
Total km., for day: 91142 overall since start. Still have to work out the days trips.
Camped at: N47.66091° E23.67543°
Took a slow drive over a very windy road over a pass to get R back to his car. We stopped at the same place as we met up for a coffee and when he asked them if there was any chance of me getting a shower the waitress disappeared and came back with a key, number 101, from the hotel that is attached to the complex and said I could use the one in the room quick. It was all fresh clean and made up. No charge, amazing folk. Finally dropped him off sort of 11ish. After that I just took a few hours to drive around on my own to get used to being independent and on my tod again.
Human nature being what it is I very quickly adjusted to having my very own personal in car navigation system, left, right, straight on etc.
Landed back at the same place and spent the rest of the afternoon unpacking and re-packing the van with a bit of an internal clean to convert it back into a one man show again with some of the usual improvements that occur to one in during the first few days of a trip.
The time with R was brilliant, especially so because he is Romanian, with all of his local knowledge and language. But what has been a special bonus for me was that he could make the time at the beginning of my trip. The route I have planned he said was pretty well thought out, but his knowledge of places that most tourists don't know about, nor did I find them in the guides I have, makes all the difference. We marked them all up on my map last night.
Also driving around has given me a completely different perspective on the place. Lots of good info as well, such as where and where not to get fresh potable water and some of the silly little things which make for a more satisfying journey.
I also have a better insight into driving here. No wonder the drivers following me were getting frustrated when I was trying to keep to the speed limits. The allowance on over the top if you get caught is 10km/hr over the posted limit. So obviously everyone drive at least at the max and then being hum try to push that as well. So if you cant beat ‘em join ‘em.
Going to try to post this set before setting off again.