26.05.12 In the bush just off the 572 under the shear face of a mountain with umpteen waterfalls cascading off it as the thaw is in full swing up there. Must be about 40 kilometres Southeast of Voss. Fantastic drive out of Hov over the fjell down the serpentine to Dragsvik for the Ferry. Stopped off in Vik to stock up on grub, detour into Hopperstad to see one of the remaining Stav Churches still on the list since 2008. One more to see in Røldal (this trip) and Røros (next trip) and then I’ll have all the T-shirts.
Up and out over the next fjell and down again into Voss. Again a fantastic trip up and over the fjell and down into Voss. It is all still under umpteen feet of snow and all sorts of activities were going on. Folks out on langlauf skis, others in bikinis in own built windbreaks out of snow sunbathing.
Then it took ages to find this spot but it was worth it and wild at that. N 60°35'37" E 06°52'13”
Nothing new spotted during the day.
27.05.12 From last camp to Ferry spotted plenty of “if required wild sites” for the next trip. Ferry trip was a short one but the road after the Ferry is pretty narrow and we had not realised we were in the middle of a local Bank Holiday so every Norwegian camper van was on the road. Went up to Eidfjord, memory trip, for a coffee and the view.
After that had expected to camp wild and were surprised to find this delightful little sight on the exit of Odda at the head of the lake. N 60°03'10" E 06°32'40”

28.05.12 Same site, loafed around, tanked up on some sunshine until mid afternoon.
Then took a hike up the mountain to gander at a massive waterfall on the other side of the lake.
29.05.12 Up and over to Røldal, collected a Stav Church T-shirt then down the E134 to the 9 and followed it for the rest of the days drive. Stopped off in a place called Hovden to shop and found a Hotspot so used the opportunity to post an update to the Blog, catch up on e-mail and check the Bank. Not far from there camped wild on top of the fjell at a picnic site off the road. N 59°27'43" E 07°24'34” which was a good site but a wind got up and it was bloody cold all night. Map tells me the river we are camped alongside is the Odra.
Caught sight of Canada Goose, one lonely one, and a male Goosander. Sandpiper all over again.

30.05.12 Drove down to Lysebotn right at the East end of the Lysefjord. The ride in is incredible and the drop down into Lysebotn goes down the most incredible serpentine I have ever driven. Have to try to remember to keep count of the hairpins on the way back up. It is all very spectacular but not the best place we have visited. Anyway done it now.
N 59°03'43" E 06°38'53”
Head out tomorrow and will probably be in Halden by the 4th or 5th of June to crash down in on leg to Puttgarden then potter home for the 13th June.
Which will probably make this one of, if not the, last posts for this trip.
Nearly forgot off the 9 spotted a couple of Goosander pairs and similar count of Canada Geese. Only mention the geese as the had goslings with them.

13.05.12 Breakfast followed by much needed shower and general body repair. I was steaming. 10:00 am Ferry to mainland and checked out the planned walk for the day, Looks good but so cold, windy and raining like hell postponed until next trip.
Made a detour into Rørvik along the way. Nothing to write home about! Only exciting thing about the detour was that on the way in, just after an Elk warning sign, three of them trotted out onto the road about ten metres in front of the van and nonchalantly crossed over. Left an awful lot of rubber on the road. No contact, which was just as well, they were three full grown cows. They took their time and were prime beasts.  Not long after spotted another in a field followed by a deer shortly after that. After such magnificent Elk though it looked about as big as a Hare in comparison.
Moved on to Namsos and through to Aglen where we had stayed on the 2008 trip, but after all our experiences too date did not find it as good as before. Undeterred, turned around as Aglen is a dead end and headed back towards Namsos. Found a tremendous place to camp wild at N 64°36'38" E 11°13'44" with a tremendous view.
After figure a dawdling route out on the way to the Klein’s as it is only about 120 kilometres and we have arranged to see them on Saturday.

14.05.12 Easy run into Namsos, shopping, finally found out the way the Road Tolls work here so that might save us some aggro in the future. Just trundling down the 715 with no specific plans.
Found another wild camp at the top of a pass on the side of a small lake just off the road and looking back up into the hills. N 64°12'43" E 10°25'34"
Great excitement, think I saw a pair of Red-throated Diver just land on the lake. Have to try to get closer to confirm this.
Yup! That is definitely wot they is. Gives me quite a thrill.
Given our coordinates and the fact that the trees are only just starting to show the green tips of their leaves, I was quite surprised to keep on hearing a Cuckoo.
Spent a long time photographing the Red-throated Diver, hope they turn out.

15.05.12 Brassed off with myself with the Red-throated Diver photographs, not a single decent on!
Managed all of 59 kms., today. Dived off the 715 into the Ronan Kommune, (something for the Lord of the Rings fans amongst us). Whoever created all this got everything, but absolutely everything right on this piece of Earthly real estate.
Another wild camp at N 64°06.402’ E 10°09.663’. Looks across the Skjørafjorden between Joskjrøn and Nordskjørin.
 Was sitting on a rock early afternoon with the binoculars checking out the other side of the Fjord and turned round to look behind me for some reason or other and fell off my perch. The biggest adult White-tailed Eagle I have ever seen flew (glided) around the corner of the mountain into view and sailed majestically past. Tremendous views of him/her. Camera of course safely well out of reach. I’m starting too sound rather like an ornithological Angler with his tall tails, even to myself. I see’d him, I did, I really did.
My day today, went on a hike along the coast road late afternoon and spotted some Black-throated Diver. To top off my perfect day, I was unable too resist lighting a baby camp fire so that my Boy Scout heart could sleep in peace.
Think I shall pump up the front suspension tomorrow before setting off, the front end seems a wee bit too low for my taste. Which of course is the main problem, there is no science in it, just my eyeballs.

16.05.12 A Bullfinch made my breakfast and day, by coming and sitting immediately over my head where I was having my outdoor early morning cuppa. Serenaded me for quite awhile and I could almost touch him he was that close.
Drove a bit further than planned today as tomorrow is the Norwegian National Day and all is closed. Sooo! You’ve got it. We had to make sure we had two days worth of coffee break pastries. Have to get your priorities right up here in the wilderness. Also took the chance to fill up with fuel and get all of our water canisters filled up as well as we were down to 15 litres and our consumption is about 8 litres a day.
This all cost an unnecessary 60 kilometres before everything was located, (the pastries of course), but better safe than sorry as tomorrows planned stage is through about 100 kilometres of fairly uninhabited countryside on dirt roads.
Caught sight of Black-throated Diver again.
Another wild camp at N 64°00'09" E 10°29'17" just outside of Åfjord, again at the side of a river. Not brilliant but suitable for a nights kip. Plenty of Greenshank about, making quite a racket.

17.05.12 Good sleep but not much of a place. The Greenshank made up for that.
The route over the Fjel was not as I had hoped it to be but going over the top a pair of Goldeneye presented a great close up view and scared up a couple of Hare in winter camouflage.
Highlight of the day was just after we hit the 17 at the side of the road on the water that forms the top end of the Trondheimsfjorden. Goes by the name of Hjelbotn and turned out to be an ornithological feast. The reason for stopping at this particular place was it was time for a break and a whole bunch of Geese were to be seen. Thought I. Within five minutes was able to ID:
Bean Goose,
Wigeon,
Teal,
Greenshank,
Redshank,
and of course must not forget to give the ever present Oyster Catcher a mention.
After a tremendous blow up with “B” just parked up on a camp site in Steinkjer. This turned out to be the same one we had used the year before. N 64°01'23" E 11°30'21"
It was raining in bucket full’s so just sat around in the van. During this time finally managed to get an ID on a bird that has been bugging me since Forøya. “Fieldfare”, they were out in force on the field we were camped on getting fat on all of the worms which were coming up for air. Much to the bird’s delight.
Have also managed to locate the LPG filling station for tomorrow as we are getting pretty low, another reason for being in Steinkjer.

18.05.12 Went back to the same site as yesterday to try for photographs, N 64°06'32" E 11°21'56". Took plenty and back at the same camp site as yesterday downloaded them and a first pass shows some good ones.
Unfortunately of all those seen yesterday the Widgeon only showed up on the horizon, the buggers, and could not get close enough to photograph them. Managed a couple the day before but not quality ones. Never seen them before and it is a very beautiful creature. Subtle pink coloured chest feathers.

19.05.12 Another lazy start after showering and topping up water supplies. Again nobody showed up and wanted to be paid so that is two free nights we have had.
An equally lazy drive across to the Klein’s and with them spent a pleasant five hours chin wagging. They have found a rented house high up in the hills on the North side of the Trondheim Fjord looking down and across to it. It is a very old wooden building like nearly all buildings here. Real cool set up.
Decided not to catch the Ferry across to Flakkt and wild camped in a wharf with a small adjacent Marina. N 63°29'1" E 09°59'48"

20.05.12 Woke to find a couple of deer next to the van viewing the boats in the Marina and a Heron looking for breakfast. Turned out to be a great place. The WC for the Marina Boat House was open so we had hot water and all the necessary.
The Swallows have arrived so guess it is officially summer.
Went down through to Kvanne and did the detour into the Stangvikfjord towards Todalen for a coffee break and afterwards Ferry from Kvanne to pick up with the 70 as far as Meisingset to dive off up into the hills and camped wild at at N 62°49'03" E 08°14'23". Silence and beauty and hopefully a couple of good photographs, couple of which should make for good B&W’s.
Plenty of bird life, and they were all that broke the silence. Saw a few Siskin which is a first for me again.

21.05.12 Spotted a Redpoll way up at the tip of a dead pine tree singing his heart out at the early morning sun. Also a first.
Ran up to have a look at Bud again and saw some Eider. Heron were all over as well.
Camped wild again at at N 62°34'07" E 07°43'20" at the side of the Issfjorden just short of Åndalsnes.
Over the Trollsteigen tomorrow to Geiranger. Looking forward to this and will probably camp twice up there if it is not all under snow. It as over 1500 meters.

22.05.12 Up early  and watched the Dolphins cruising around in the fjord over breakfast. Then into Åndalsnes to use the Railway Stations facilities for a wash and brush up. Had a look around, it is a neat little town with a splendid view up to the end of the fjord and into the mountains.

Finally got on our way only to find that on turning into the road to the Trollsteigen it is closed. Still completely snowed in from the winter. So bang went plan “A” again.

Back into town to have a coffee and peruse the maps. Does not take long in Norway to come up with a plan “B” and set off.
Had picked out a shortcut through the hills again on what I suspected was a dirt road. Guess what? It was and very bumpy and narrow as well but so grand we soon stopped at N 62°28'59" E 07°02'53" and camped there.
We are sandwiched between a raging thaw filled stream and the mountains an both side which are feeding it.
The range on one side seems to be shedding its load of snow at regular intervals by the look of its flanks.. No action while we have been here and guess that it will be quiet now that the sun has disappeared behind the opposite ridge.

23.05.12 Some Dipper this morning feeding in the stream.
I braved the stream and did a skinny dipper for a bath before breakfast. Quick lick and a spit it was by George. Woke me up I must say and felt great once the pain let up.
Long drive and we are back in Hov again as it belongs to one of our unbeatable set.
N 61°19'26" E 06°16'02".
Plan on three nights to chill out and walk some of the rapids again.

24.05.12 Doing just that today. Chilling, walking and hoping the snow is going to come down off the mountain.

25.05.12 Finally ID’d the Common Sandpiper which has been an effort. The book I was given at Christmas has taken a bashing this trip, the print is fading. Starting to get the hang of it though.
Siskin all over but merge so well into the surroundings that they are extremely difficult to spot. At least for an amateur like myself.
After three successive fine sunny days, which in comparison to what has been on offer for the earlier part of this trip, are almost tropical to us, the sky has clouded up and looks like a storm bank rolling in from the West. 

07.05.12 Very rainy evening yesterday and for most of the night. Had a good start, caught the Ferry straight after breakfast and at Kiktvik drove straight onto the 10:30 (winter) sailing, over the Arctic Circle again on our way back down south.
Short deviation off route into Mo I Rana for victuals before getting back onto the planned route.
Finally camped up at N 66°01'46" E 12°41'56" with 90291 km total on clock. Wild camp in a rest area on the ramp and not a very pleasant night. This is on the south ramp of the Helgelandsbru, a 1065 metre long bridge and a magnificent one at that. Have a photo but will post it some other time.
Was pouring with rain on arrival and was hard at it when we bedded down.

08.05.12 Early start after a fairly miserable night, still pouring. Got down to Leka after four Ferry rides, but no hassles and arrived at a reasonable time. Even managed to get onto our favourite pitch looking across the channel to the mainland and the mountains. Have decided to stay until Sunday morning.
N 65°04'47" E 11°41'55" 90458 km.

09.05.12 Walked out onto NE tip of island ou towards the Bird Sanctuary without any special sightings. Greylag, Curlew etc., supposed to be Redshank but without luck. Cannot get close enough.

10.05.12 Another great day, walking tour up into the hills, about 8 kilometres altogether. Cloudy and a little rain but altogether exhilarating.

11.05.12 Across onto NE side today. Climbed onto top of a hill to remains of a WWII emplacement. German. Remains of three stone lined dugouts, what looked like the remains of a small stone building and a large one which could have been barrack etc. Magnificent view for the troops on duty up there, but as windy and cold as hell.
Parked up further down on the same side but going south for a break quite close to the sea and found the van was right next to a juvenile but pretty much full size White-tailed Eagle. Some gulls forced him up but I think I got a couple of fair shots.


12.05.12 Not much in the way of exercise today. Met a 68 year old Swiss guy. Been in Norway since 1982. Really nice guy, well travelled and completely natural. Gave us a tip for Honda Generator and let me check out his. Very light and quiet. Checked it out on the web once back on the camp site and it looks quite reasonable so guess will get one.
Did the round the island drive and over on the east side found the remains (fresh) and not much of it left over, of a fairly young black lamb that a White-tail had taken for its morning meal.
Back to the mainland tomorrow but not far. Found what looks like a good and interesting hike in North Gutvik by the look of it on the OS Map. Have to be a wild camp again.

06.05.12 Finest nights sleep this trip all together. Caught up with Blog and then had a hike over the hills to the other side of the bay for some fresh air and get the bones out of a sitting position. Lots of fresh air and it is all tremendous scenery.
Looks like the birds are coming back for the evening so maybe I shall have some luck with the camera. With the birds the rain has closed down and does not look like it is going to move on.
Hit the road again tomorrow.

05.05.12 Having spent a surprisingly undisturbed night despite the racket the Ferry kindly left on time and apart from the first twenty minutes which were a wee bit rolly-polly smooth enough for B to have a good trip as well. Ferry trip is four hours and a good boat.
Camped up in Forøya, N 66°44'18" E 13°30'03" another previously visited one right next door to the next Ferry landing stage. More pleasant than the last though.
Have decided on two nights to do a bit of bird watching. In the evening had a Red-breasted Merganser swimming up and down on the left and two pairs of Golden Plover, one largish Curlew and a pair of Greylag Geese on the right of the van. All within a radius of about 20 metres. Life is really stressful. If they come back tomorrow evening will try for some photographs.

04.05.12 First undisturbed nights kip for over a week which was pleasant. Another easy start to the day discovered that the tortoise had taken on a bum in the air stance but drove down to south end of the island to Å, which is as far sSouth as it goes with a vehicle. On the way through Sørvågen discovered that the bicycle is still tied up to the post in the middle of the harbour and tried to get some better shots than in 2008.
After that drove up to Leknes to a decent garage with a decent air pump to try and get the suspension set properly. After a considerable amount of sodding about got us about right.Of course during all this the bonnet also became jammed shut so it was rude word time again, but all’s well….
Still slightly higher at the back than the front but it seems to work.
After this a slow drive back to Moskenes nipping into all the small villages in the bays along the West side of the island.
Finished up on the Ferry loading quay in Moskenes, N 67°53'59" E 13°02'42" and spent the night there, apart from our vehicle only large transport trucks with trailers and all refrigerated and that ran all night. What a racket. Ferry is due to leave for Bodø at 07:00 tomorrow.

03.05.12 Slept through the biggest gale we have experienced in Andenes this trip. Made for a disturbed sleep but got some. Went suspiciously still toward early morning. Reason why was immediately apparent on dropping the blinds on getting up, snowed again, and in mega amounts.
Finally found out what the wee bird found all over here in large numbers and I could not identify. Snow Bunting. This was thanks to the folks at the Whale Safari office.
Anyway had a lazy start and an easy run down through the Vesterålen to finish up at another of our old camp sites in Ramberg on the Lofoten.
Just before leaving Andoya saw a whole bunch of Lapwing in a field.
Only stayed the night in Ramberg and treated our selves to a delicious piece of Halibut.
N 68°09'35" E 13°14'04"
Compare this picture below with the one on 30.04.12. This one is taken on the same spot just three days later.

02.05.2012 Last day here in Andenes, after the domestic chores that fall due in such a large home as ours, and the usual dash to get the days pastries of course we then off for a drive around the island. That is plus/minus 120 kilometres. The west coast is always the more exciting and today was no exception.
First we stopped to watch a pair of full grown White Tailed Eagles which were sat at the top of a dune about a hundred metres from where we stopped. Magnificent birds they are and they certainly look powerful. Then moving of and about a kilometre further we flushed up three more which had been lurking just off the side of the road watching the sea. They were also all adults and, as later on in the drive, we saw quite a few more along with some travelling across the island from east to west I guess the Puffins have, or are starting to arrive at the island off Bleik. This means a large, easy and regular mealtime twice a day for the.eagles We witnessed them feeding on our first visit, pick them out of the air in full flight, and according to what we were told each eagle takes two a day. There are by all accounts ten recorded pairs of eagle on Andøya and which works out that by the time the Puffins take off to the high seas again there will be around 5,800 of them less.
Either way, I do not think this will weigh heavily on the Puffin population, about 80,000 pair nest and breed on this island alone each year.
Saw the Geese agin and ID’d them as Greylag without question. (Sure you are glad to know that at last). Did not see the other un-identified one from yesterday but am fairly certain it was a Ptarmigan, failing which a Willow Grouse. The are very similar and with their winter coats fairly indistinguishable to the likes of me.
Curlew abound all over the island as well.
Enough. Route takes us down through the Vesterålen onto the Lofoten. From there, Moskenes is the name of the village it is a four hour ferry ride to Bodø and on southwards along the west coast.
Not sure how often we shall get a connection so keep on breathing in and out.

Check out Photo Galleries, Travel, 4 Yuri and Co. I have posted some photographs she wanted made which relate to her Families history. No works of art.

01.05.12 Woke to a surprise again after a night so windy thought the van was going to fly, to find ourselves covered in snow again. At least the gale had abated somewhat.
After a lazy start drove down into town and found a level piece of hardstanding out of the wind and adjusted the front suspension air pressures and after a final check tomorrow with the manufacturer will continue with what is now plan A, ie., plan B plus plan C. Ho well at least we shall only look like a tortoise with a limp as opposed to the earlier three legged version.
Took a run down the west coast of the island and saw a fait bit. Also the stormy weather has whipped up quite a sea and the waves rolling in off the Norwegian Sea are quite impressive especially breaking on the rocky coastline.
For the hornythologists amongst you spotted the following which I could ID:
Whooper Swans
Red-breasted Merganser
White Tailed Eagle
Eider Ducks
Saw three other species which are driving me nuts trying to find out what they are. Checked thru my book umpteen times and cannot get there. Going out again tomorrow sow will have to get a better look.

The Whooper Swans make a change for the bog standard Mute Swans which were al over the place coming through Poland and the Baltic States.