Why wasn't I surprised when I looked up the road traffic accident rate for Romania and found that they had the highest fatality rate in the EU for 2017.
Imagine that lot jingling and bouncing around in front of your eyeballs, doesn't bear thinking about.
Start: 05:30 Finish: 14:45
Total km., for day: 263,5
Camped at: N45° E25.20904°
Another great night on the go at 05:30 getting the van and myself ready to go. On the road at 08:30. Just getting out of the northern half of Bucharest, which is where I was camped, was hard work traffic wise. Marius told me when he’s in town he leaves his car at home and uses local transport and taxis. Not worth his time or the stress he reckons. Can understand him.
First 120 km’s going North were not of particular note but improved after that, but photography wise a bit flat. Changed my route on a whim after awhile and instead of keeping east for some before turning north and the west to loop around to the south of Brasov to my “original” destination planned for this section, I cut straight north and went around Brasov to the north. From there up to Persani and Sinca Veche headed for Zarnesti. Not far outside of Sinca Veche I spotted tire tracks going off to my right straight through a meadow so I followed. Found my self another great spot, out of the way backed up out of sight into some Ash and Hazel trees for a quiet night.
After checking the map I’ve decided to change route again, may not work though, SatNav won't let me cut through the Mountain Ranges as I wish. Have to see tomorrow, the road may still be closed, its up over 2,000 m.
OFR-19 04.05
Start: 05:30 Finish: 14:15
Total km., for day: 178,6
Camped at: N45.46820° E25.22724°
Must have a clear conscience, I’m sleeping like a log. All fit at 07:30 fit and ready to rove, see what my route has for surprises. Road closed, yes or no?
In Zarnesti there is an entrance into national Park by the name of “Craiuli”. Wonderful! I went in as far as I was allowed to drive, and had to turn around. Annoys the proverbial out of me finding places like this at the “OF” stage of my life. To enjoy you have to be fit, strong with major helpings of endurance. Never mind I’m just grateful to have got see the likes, and glare my best old git scowl at all the lucky young folks.
Where I had to turn back was a very interesting info display, nature really is having a spree in the park. Masses of protected stuff, along with bear, wolf, lynx etc., etc. All they seem short of is lions and tigers.
In Zarnesti I spotted an Undertaker’s offering “Complete Funeral Services”. Got me wondering what an incomplete one is like. Perhaps they just put you out to dry!
From Zarnesti I tuned south onto Route 73 and drove as far as Camplung to stock up, had absolutely nothing left in the larder. Then went back up the 73 going north again and at a place named Podu Dambovite towards Dambovicioara, isn't that lovely, and I’ve not used any of the accents etc., on the letters. Anyway that leads into the same park I just raved about only on the other side of the mountains. This dives straight into a deep narrow limestone Gorge which opens up into a not much wider valley flanked by steep woody hills. Another Wow effect. Once again I drove as far as permitted and camped alongside a little brook and just enjoyed the solitude and quiet.
OFR-20 05.05
Start: 06:00 Finish: 13:10
Total km., for day: 158,6
Camped at: N45.56324° E24.60977°
Was headed back out by 07:30 headed off on the route I chose but now know for sure that it is closed somewhere up in the mountains. Decided to go anyway as I’m hoping to meet with another 1x’er on Monday quite close to here, so I need to kill some time.
The road heads more or les due north from Cuerta de Arges towards Corbeni and on past Lake Vidraru made by a Dam across the River Arges. The dam is 150 meters high so it holds back a mass of water. It is really a rather large lake and I was hoping to find a nice spot on its banks to camp. No luck, the road gives no opportunities to get down to it.
The whole drive was very interesting. As far as Corbeni great rolling green hills, either wooded or planted with goodies with who knows what in orchards. Looked like Walnuts and Olives to me but I ain’t no expert. Bumpy and windy as hell though. After that the roads heads on towards the mountains, again in a gorge before it starts a very convoluted climb up the sides to land immediately on top of the Dam. Quite a view. Going back out I’ll take a couple of snaps. The road is open up as far as 1,285 m., up. Turned back down and found an awful spot to camp. I really am suffering. I’ve included a photo so you can share my pain. (On the way out and based on what the roadside vendors had on their stalls I’m guessing Pears, big fat juicy ones, although its an odd time of the year).
Its getting really cloudy so I’m hoping a good strong lot of rain is coming to wash off all the caked mud that refuses to detach itself from my good steed since my Danube debacle. Must be places where its possible but solar to dense to locate one.
It really did come down hard for ages along with sleet at one stage. washed a lot of muck off but not the real heavy stuff.
OFR-21 06.05
Start: 06:30 Finish: 18:40
Total km., for day: 235
Camped at: N45.37930° E24.31639°
Set off at 06:30 after a really peaceful night. Off back down again, I wanted to try going out on the other side of the water and got about 7 km., down the dirt road to 45.43583° 24.60598° where there is a fairly large resort. Considering the road over the short stretch I thought for a change I’d ask before leaping and got a most emphatic no to carrying on the way I was headed. Apparently it has not been properly cleared after the winter, shame but not the end of the world.
Mind you it has got me thinking that the next major section of my original planned route might not be on. Had similar problems in Norway at this time of year. Roads still closed down because of winter. Up there sometimes into early June. Just have to wait and see.
Checked in with Julien at about 15:00 about our meeting up and he had just got home so we arranged to meet at 16:00 instead of tomorrow which suited me down to the ground. Did so and we had a good catch up and he treated me to a great “Italian” nosh and I headed on.
Getting to him took me through the Cozia National Park and the villages, mist and everything was tremendous. Photo at the end, I’ve added a caption to help ID it. In taking it, it crossed my mind that hopefully the blind faith that I put into the well being and capabilities of my mechanical steed are not misplaced. Pretty lonely and away from it all. Wouldn't want to get stuck, not a lot of traffic and no Mobile phone signal here, nor a lot of football teams to push.
Finally found a reasonable spot to camp up.
OFR-22 07.05
Start: 02:00 Finish: 19:05
Total km., for day: 365.7
Camped at: N44.86936° E22.38855°
Turned out to be a long day of adventures and a surfeit of adrenaline.
Got a major scare at 02:00, guess I wasn't as far off the beaten track as I should have been to stop where I did. Woke just before two for a pee (this takes place in my portable loo bootle inside the van thank goodness). If I’d been outside who knows what might have happened, the least would have been that I’d have died of fright.
Anyway business done and as I was about to lie down again the van was briefly light up by a torch which then swung away and gave me a glimpse of two other bodies lurking around before quickly being extinguished. That was when I proved to myself, often wondered how it would go in a situation, that I could get the front of the van in a driving state from the back, get into the pilots seat and do a flier, that is now a proven fact. I can do so.
As a result also learnt a few better ways of stowing the gear up front at night before settling down to make it a great deal easier to do. This includes being sure I can either drive straight through and out of the spot I’m camped in, or, reversed around so I can get straight away in the direction I came from. In this instance I had already checked I could drive straight through and out. There had been and still was a lot of rain coming down and was very concerned about waking up to find myself bogged down.
I headed down to the main drag and drove to where I had spotted place yesterday where spring water was available to fill up my canisters as I was almost empty. Then parked up in a Petrol Station forecourt for the rest of the night and slept some more, after my adrenaline level permitted.
Couldn't resist it and after waking up went back to have a look and there was no trace of any “lurkers”. Going back in I did pass a pair of horses, one white and the other chestnut coloured and briefly wondered if my imagination had got the better of me and it had been them. It is pitch black in these places and no real moonlight to write home about. I am also in the middle of reading Glen Cook’s “Instrumentalities of the Night” series, and in the middle of the “Surrender to the Will of the Night” volume.😳
I’m a bit doddery but not that much, I know a torch when I see one and anyway discretion was most definitely the better part of valour in this case was my my considered opinion. Not that I took long to consider it.
Moved a bit further up the valley and had a sedate and enjoyable breakfast to sooth my ruffled feathers, got my teeth all nice and shiny and set of on the part of the route that since I planned it over fifteen months ago has been a source of great excitement for me and I’ve been really looking forward to it. Assuming winter will not have put a damper on it. The way is straight through the National Park which goes by the name of Parcel National Cerna-Domogled.
When I had asked my Romanian friends to comment on it this particular section I was first told no, but when I mentioned I had four wheel drive yes. I did not mention that the van was not a 4x4. Perhaps I should have!
If anyone is interested look for a place named Uricani on Route 66A and from there straight on in a sort of SW’erly direction down to Baile Herculane. That was the plan, but Murphy showed up and somehow I landed up in Baia de Arama. That was most definitely a f’up as I have subsequently sorted out from the map I’ve got. Somewhere on the way past Uricani I missed a right and got off the 66A, which meant I was on a most definitely Off-road, road. Clever after the event and all that. The way up was a bit of a doddle and didn't give me any real cause to doubt that I was going the right way. Maybe the last five kilometres going up to the highest point made me a little edgy. Once I hit the top it was beautiful. the entire area had been cleared with views all around and it is some real wild country. Cracking. I took a breather and toyed with staying up there to camp, but with an eye on the weather decided no. Thank goodness I did.
The barrier on the continuation of the road down was open so I thought righty ho down we go. Mistake!
I started my downward trip at 13:30 and as can be seen from my driving finish time I finally camped up at 19:05 and that was all downhill. I’d got bout three kilometres behind me on the way down before I started to thing “oh dear”, but not much to be done at that stage, I was the wrong side of the rubicon, I doubt that I’d have got back up. So onward ever onward. It was all either in first or second gear all the way to Baia Arama, and having no ground clearance worth talking about I spent most of my time trying to balance along the tops of the ruts or with on set of wheels in the rut and the other up top.
After I’d been negotiating this lot for about eight kilometres I was suddenly confronted with four, 4x4’s going like the devil himself was after them. I had to laugh they were a German group, all young guys with all the gear. All had rally lights and intake snorkels and really looked the part. The lead vehicle was the one that got me. He had two rows of rally lights, five in each row, one row at bumper level and the other on the roof. If that wasn't bad enough they were all full on in bright sunshine. 🙄😳😋 . Reminded me a bit of Puff the Magic Dragon and his "Big Boy's Jeep" in Sohar! Anyway they were having their fun, but meeting a VW Caddy tootling along in the other direction being driven by an old fart took the wind out of their sails a bit I think. We had a nice chat, I told them what was coming their way and they mine and we parted.
Must confess to breaking into a sweat on more than one occasion and near the bottom got another wrong turn under my belt. By this time it was chucking it down and I found myself going up hill again thinking this can't be right. After about six kilometres in dodgy mud the track was blocked by loggers. Thank goodness it was or who knows where I might be now! After lots of hands and feet linguistics and laughs along with my by now torn and tatty map they put me right and one of them helped me not slide over the edge doing what must be the tightest three point turn of my life and I set off again. There were only a few minor set backs after that before I finally found this camp site. Bit loud etc., but with facilities of which the shower was the best endless hot steaming water for my nerves and weary bones.
I have to confess when I finally hit tar again I heaved a sigh of relief. That turned out to definitely be a, “I didna aughta dunn’it" ride. But I also have to confess once my heart had slowed down to normal again and I was able to relax that I was glad I did dunnit! Wont bother again unless the vehicle is right and I certainly wouldn't recommend it to others. Got away with it and done is done and behind us. The rest of the trip is all on tar and apart from potholes and Romanian Kamikaze drivers nothing to write home about.
OFR-23 08.05
Start: 06:15 Finish: 14:15
Total km., for day: 188,3
Camped at: N45.18877° E22.00735°
Moved out at 08:30 intending to do no more than 150 km’s. But as always by the time a suitable place to camp is located it always ends up a bit more.
It was a wonderful scenic drive full of passing interests, but that was all, nothing out of the ordinary and I was thankful really. Yesterday was enough excitement for a day or so. Finally found this place right out of the way down on the banks of a fairly fast brook, looked like a major trout fishing area as I came in. I’m definitely far enough off the beaten track for “lurkers” not to come and haunt my pee break in the night and I’m content.
Had the van sorted out, all doors and windows open to air the place and the kettle was on when my visitors arrived. A whole herd of cows came wandering through, they paused long enough to check both the van and me out then continued on their way, all by their own some, no herder. Going home for the night I suppose.
OFR-31 09.05
Start: 06:00 Finish: 12:50
Total km., for day: 214,5
Camped at: N45.68850° E22.85390°
Really short day mostly all on an E Route so I could cover the ground fairly pronto. Just as well as this drive has been utterly boring. First time that has happened on this trip.
I have never seen so many walnut trees in my life though. The road the entire way lined with them, left and right, as well as fields full of them and at least one in everybody's garden. Need a freight train to harvest the crop.
Picked a pay site again ‘cos nowt around that is anywhere worthy of a wild camp.
Spent the afternoon eating, reading, catching up on my notes and generally taking it easy. Tremendous thunderstorm been going on for almost the last two hours. lovely.
Hope to have an internet connection either tomorrow or Friday.
OFR-32 10.05
Start: 06:00 Finish: 15:50
Total km., for day: 335,4
Camped at: N45.70625° E24.10438°
All quiet overnight on the lake and headed off back towards Uricani, which is where my little off-road adventure started. Reason to go back was that the town is the left over from coal mining that used to go on here. Used to be a major industry and then closed down. All min heads and processing plants built up in support in the area have been left to run, fall apart and make a blot on the landscape. The apartment blocks , presumably for the miners and ancillary stuff are still there, and in a terrible state of disrepair, but still lived in. It was these that caught my eye first time and I thought it was a missed photo opportunity. But back there today it was just so depressing to see how the folks live I couldn't bring myself to take any.
Must be, or have been something going on in the mountains that I went through, somewhere up there at least. As i was driving back in over twenty, Swiss registration, serious looking 4x4’s and support vehicles came down the other way, looking very dirty indeed. Must be a rally of some sort going on.
After that headed back to Petrila towards Brezoi in the opposite direction as that a few days ago. Then when it meets the 67C took left to go north to Saliste, then east towards Sibiu. At Sacel dived down onto the backroads to this place, Cisnadioara. really torturous route but absolutely fascinating.
Small neat little camp site here for all of €7.00 with WiFi. Hence the stop. tomorrow I do the rounds of the Fortified Churches, two of which I saw, briefly on my first trip, and found them rather interesting. They are the centre of the villages which grew out around them. In times of trouble they all dived inside the walls.
Start: 05:45 Finish: 00:00
Total km., for day:
Camped at: N° E°
Up early today in the hope that I can get the rest of the images and blog notes uploaded, too much traffic last night. Anyway got it done. This will probably be the last post for about the next ten days so don't hold your breath.